i'm pasting this from youtube, apologies for the brevity:
this is probably the most informative keyboard tutorial, but i've got a few questions. those liquid sensors you pointed out, am I right in assuming they turn red when wet? i discovered that one out of three of them was actually red so I assume they would have spotted it. More importantly, when you showed where you jumped your board, I noticed my unibody macbook (not pro) is a little different, its a 5.1 (late 2008/2009), would any ebay'd kit work? and do they come with new sensors/replacement black cover?
Yes, the liquid sensors turn red when wet. Generally, replacement parts do come with new sensors.
On the unibody non-Pro MacBook, the contacts for jumping the board are right above the trackpad plug, a slightly different location than on the 15" Pro unibody. If you look in the bottom-left corner of the logic board, the trackpad connector is on the bottom edge just slightly to the right of that corner, and bright orange and square in shape. Centered immediately above it are the two silver contacts. Touch these with two ends of a paperclip, or the two points of a pair of metal tweezers, and it should produce the same effect as pressing the power button (assuming the power button is working). If it doesn't work at first, try disconnecting the keyboard ribbon cable, and then try again.
Also, although it's possible to replace the keyboard, I've found it's often not a bad idea or all that expensive to replace the whole topcase. Keyboards can cost around $60, and entire topcases, keyboard included, can go for as low as $100-$120. It's still a little more, but it's less work, and you end up with an old topcase to use for spare parts (or to sell).
Anyway, I hope that helps!
Also, pulling the ribbon cables out (the ones without connectors at the end) was sort of difficult, and I'm worried about how I'm going to get them back in. Do you have any tips? One idea that popped into my head was dipping the tips of a pair of forceps in a plastic coating (its called plasti-dip, used for making handles on hand tools). Thanks again for the quick reply, this job would have been mostly guesswork without it.
For the small ribbon cables, I use Tweezerman tweezers. They are the best tweezers in existence, and they are far more precise than cheaper tweezers. They were not necessarily intended for computer repair, so you have to get them online or at beauty supply stores (Ulta, etc.), and they cost about $20/ea, but they are worth it, and there are a few different models...I suggest getting at least the fine-point and slanted-point versions, because they come in handy for different functions. Anyway, using two pairs of tweezers, re-inserting small ribbon cables becomes MUCH easier. They are all metal, which I suppose technically is a static hazard, but as long as you ground yourself, and of course make sure the computer is off, you should be fine.
Also, make sure to check out ifixit.com for step-by-step guides when doing the topcase replacement.
Thanks, and good luck!
Thanks again for your advice, I'll search ifixit tonight and figure out which length screw goes where.
edit: so I answered my own question. I can replace the cpu with a 2.4 ghz p8600, and obviously can't replace an integrated video card. oh well, maybe I'll pick up a degree in EE and figure out how to do it. in any case ebay has lots of neat macbook stuff, just have to know whats compatible and what isn't
edit: this is one is way more informative: http://forums.macnn.com/69/mac-notebooks/210232/diy-ibook-dual-usb-logic-board/
but this one is actually really affordable http://www.pcb-soldering.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=208
Thanks for the links on the rework stations! The really cheap one is not technically a rework, and more like a fancy soldering iron. A good rework is all about precision and automation...something that involves you holding a tool in your hand is just not going to be very precise. The high-end reworks are programmable and have mechanical arms that repeat a program perfectly. It's the only way to go. Over the years I've probably tried repairing G3s by hand 20 different times, using every technique I've heard of, and every time it's come back to haunt me.
Could you explain where exactly the contacts for jumping the 15" Pro unibody are?
13" MBP (Mid 2009)
15" MBP (Mid 2010)
17" MBP (Mid 2010)