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Sell your MacBook

LVDS Connecter?

edited August 2011 in General
I have another Macbook Pro that looks like the LVDS connecter on the logic board got fried. The computer works fine, besides there is no display. I have tested it on an external monitor. I have also tested two different displays so I think it has to be the connecter. I can get a replacement part for $25 and I have a very experienced computer tech in my area that will be able to resolder the new LVDS connecter for me.

Do you think a new LVDS Connecter would solve the problem? Thanks


  • Hello, and thanks for the post!

    I've seen many machines like this, and my theory is that it happens because the inverter cable on unibody MacBook Pros (I'm assuming it's a unibody) is embedded within the video cable, and so when there is a short of whatever involving the inverter system, it burns a spot on the cable connector, and also the socket itself. The burn mark is usually on the pins that involve the inverter (again, this is just my theory, and it could be nonsense).

    First I would clean out the socket and also the cable end with a soft toothbrush and 90% rubbing alcohol. Really scrub it out, let it dry a couple hours, and then see if that helps. I have seen some come back to life just as a result of doing a little cleanup.

    Before having someone do permanent surgery on the board, I would swap out another entire screen assembly and cabling, just to rule out whether yours is bad or not. It's not a bad idea to have a good complete screen assembly lying around, just so you can do this kind of testing when machines come in. I don't have much experience taking apart unibody screen assemblies, but it may be possible just to replace the video cable itself (although that probably wouldn't fully test the whole screen assembly).

    I hate to say it, but most situations I've run across with a burn mark on the socket end up being a bad board, with more stuff wrong than the socket. You could try the procedure you mention, but keep in mind there are likely other bad components than just the socket that have been fried, and the obvious physical symptom could easily just be that -- a symptom of something larger. Similarly, I've had people with bad memory slots on A1181s ask me if they can replace the slot, which is usually pointless, because the part that is not working is deeper into the machine than the slot itself.

    Thanks, and let me know how it goes!

  • I have tried another complete assembly and it did not work either. I'm going to open it up, clean it and will report my results here. Thanks
  • Cleaned it up and still not working. I guess I will just order the part and hopefully that fixes it. If not it is only about $50 bucks spent. Thanks for your help.
  • For what it's worth you might want to take the board out entirely if you haven't already and make sure there isn't corrosion underneath.
  • Ya I have had it out a few times, but doesn't look too bad.
  • I will post back here in a few days and let you know if the new connecter fixed it or not. Thanks again.
  • Please, definitely post your results! I'm very curious to hear if this fixes it...I'll keep my fingers crossed! Like I mentioned, I've always been under the assumption that the burnt port is simply a symptom of greater damage and that replacing it doesn't fix the whole problem, but I hope I'm wrong!

    One more question: It's a totally dead screen, right, not a dead backlight with a faint image? Because if the backlight is just out, there's a microfuse that is probably blown. Actually one of the other posts on this site details the location of the microfuse. But if the screen is completely out, that's not the issue.
  • Yep the screen is completely black, on both displays I tested. Thanks
  • Have you personally witnessed at least one of the screens working on another computer?
  • Nope both came from computers that would not turn on. I know it is along shot to get it fixed, but if it still doesn't work after the replacement I will just sell it as-is on eBay. I won't lose much money.

    By the way. Do you know anywhere to get working logic boards for Macs? The only place I can really find them is eBay and they are selling for ridiculous prices. Even broken logic boards are selling for $100+. Thanks
  • edited August 2011
    I would be suspicious of both screens if you haven't seen them working. NEVER trust a part you have not seen working. You could easily have two bad screens. If you assume the screens are good and the boards are bad, you might end up tossing a good board when you should toss the screens, etc.

    A dead laptop is ALWAYS the best source of good parts. Buy enough of them, and you'll have enough cheap parts to get a working machine together. As soon as you start paying premium prices for parts, especially major parts, it's game over, and you're paying too much and will not make a profit.

    I wouldn't trust most "good" logic boards on eBay...most people don't know how to test boards properly, so it's very risky. I'd buy a bunch of machines on CraigsList cheap, and eventually you'll get one with a good board and bad screen, etc., and then you'll have parts to fix a machine or two. It's a frustrating game, especially in the beginning, but with time you accumulate a small arsenal of working parts, and at that point you are able to us them to quickly diagnose machines. It's all about having working parts that you yourself know are working because you've seen them working, and then as a process of elimination you can use them to troubleshoot machines and identify bad parts.

  • Ya I have been trying to get some on them eBay with not too much luck. Even prices for water damaged ones are ridiculous. I saw a 13" 2.26GHz model with water damage go for $500 today. I guess I will give Craigslist a shot.

    Thanks for all your help again.
  • Dear John

    my mothers MBP mid 2009 got a little bit of coffee last week. Now nearly everything works well. The LCD ist working fine but the backlight does it not.

    Can you tell me the position of this small microfuse of the backlight?

    Thank you very much
  • Hi! Sorry for the delay. The discussion in the previous post below has a link to a picture of the location of the microfuse. Please note, I believe the microfuse location varies per model of machine, but it always looks very close to this one. You can test to see if this is the problem by powering on while you are bridging both ends with a pair of metal tweezers...if you get a light on the screen when it's bridged, you know that's the problem. Good luck!
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